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Hot or Not: Japanese Manicure

You might have already seen it on social media: the Japanese manicure. The treatment seems to be gaining popularity, and more and more nail stylists and salons are offering it. But what exactly does a Japanese manicure entail, and does it really add anything?

A Japanese manicure is a treatment that enhances the natural nail's natural shine without the need for artificial products like gel or a biab. By using products like polishing paste or polishing powder with added vitamins and keratin, the natural nail is nourished and strengthened. The result: the natural beauty of healthy nails, without harmful or risky products.

History of the Japanese manicure

The traditional Japanese manicure goes back a long way, when grooming in Japan was more than just beautification; taking care of one's appearance and beauty was also a ritual and an expression of discipline. Samurai warriors, for example, even practiced nail care as a form of meditation. The modern Japanese manicure we often encounter today is based on a traditional Japanese technique called "Tsume-Migaki." This method is a simple approach aimed at nourishing, strengthening, and polishing nails with ingredients like beeswax, seaweed extract, and ground pearl powder.

Steps modern Japanese manicure:

  1. Preparation: Old nail polish is removed, and the nails and surrounding skin are cleaned. A gentle scrub or exfoliant may be applied if desired.
  2. The cuticles are treated and loose skin is removed.
  3. The nail surface is smoothed with a soft buffer.
  4. A polishing paste is applied to the nails and massaged in.
  5. The nails are then further polished with polishing powder and a soft cloth, which results in a mirror-like shine of the nail surface.
  6. Finally, the nail plate and surrounding skin are hydrated with a nourishing cuticle oil or serum.

Benefits of Japanese manicure

There are certainly a number of advantages to treating the natural nail in this way, but the results will only be maintained if the treatment is repeated regularly.
The natural nail plate is hydrated with oil, and by applying beeswax and polishing it into the nail plate, it is effectively sealed. These products prevent the nail plate from drying out in the air as quickly and therefore less likely to split, tear, or break.

However, adding seaweed extract, minerals, vitamins, or keratin externally to the already formed nail plate has no proven benefit. The cells of the nail plate are formed internally from the nail matrix. Only taking supplements containing these vitamins and minerals can have some effect on the formation of the nail plate, but other factors, such as genetic predisposition or possible health conditions, also play a role.

Polishing; do or don't?

As we now know, the Japanese manicure technique involves a great deal of polishing. So, what exactly is polishing? Polishing is a process that smooths surface imperfections and roughness. This is usually done in several steps, using progressively finer grit (the grit of a nail file). The first step smooths visible ridges, the next step reduces visible lines, and this can be repeated up to six times. The final step uses such fine grit that the surface can be polished to a high gloss.

The frequent polishing of the nail plate during Japanese manicures can result in the nail plate becoming increasingly thinner. Consequently, the nail, despite its healthy appearance and shine, is no longer as strong as it once was. The nail will tear more easily and, in some cases, even become sensitive, as the natural protection of the nerve endings in the fingertips has become increasingly thinner.

1 NAIL PREPARATION

Matte the nail plate without filing excessively. There should be no visible shine, including along the sidewalls and cuticles.

2 Manicure

Perform a neat combination manicure and ensure that all membranes are completely removed from the nail plate.

3 CLEANING

Carefully remove dust and clean the nail plate with TS Cleanser .
Use a lint-free Nailwipe ( not a brush ) and make a SCRUBBING MOTION OVER THE ENTIRE NAIL PLATE ; simply wiping is not sufficient.

4 DEGREASING AND DEHYDRATING

Degrease the nail plate with TS Prep and a lint-free Nail Wipe (not a brush).
This product has a different function than the Cleanser, and both are essential. Again, use a Nail Wipe (not a brush) to perform a SCRUBBING MOTION ACROSS THE ENTIRE NAIL PLATE.
When the nail is completely degreased, it will feel rough, and you will hear a slight 'grinding/squeaking' sound – this is a sign that you've done it correctly. The Prep should evaporate within approximately 2 seconds. If it doesn't, reapply Prep (up to a maximum of 5 times; usually 2 to 3 times is sufficient).

Additional option: Dehydrate the nail plate with PH Dehydrator

5. ADHESION

Option 1: Working with flexible gel systems
Are you working with Base Coat 2.0, Builder Base Pro, or other flexible or soak-off systems? Apply TS Ultrabond over the entire nail plate, but keep a hair's breadth distance from the skin.
Avoid contact with the skin.

Option 2: Working with hard gel systems
Are you working with T-Gel, Builder Gel, Acrygel, Sculpt Jelly Gel, or other hard gel systems? Are the client's nails strong and healthy, but their activity level requires a harder product?

Apply Acid Primer over the entire nail plate and keep a distance from the surrounding skin. Allow the Acid Primer to dry completely; it will become dull again. In case of skin contact: immediately clean with water and restart cleaning and degreasing the nail plate.

6 BASE LAYER

Option 1: Working with flexible gel systems
After applying Ultrabond:
Apply a thin, even layer of TS Base Coat 2.0 :
– Start with the thumbs and place them straight in the lamp, well under the diodes.
Cure for 120 SECONDS UNINTERRUPTED. Interrupting prematurely leads to insufficient polymerization (curing).
– Then apply Base Coat 2.0 to the remaining four nails per hand and cure again for 120 SECONDS UNINTERRUPTED. Place the thumbs in the lamp again.
Ensure the hand is placed correctly in the lamp and all nails are properly exposed to light.
After curing, remove the sticky layer from the Base Coat 2.0.

Option 2: Working with hard gel systems
After the Acid Primer has completely dried:
Apply a thin, even layer of T-Gel Clear
or Builder Gel Clear:
– Start with the thumbs and place them straight in the lamp, well under the diodes.
Cure for 120 SECONDS UNINTERRUPTED. Interrupting prematurely leads to insufficient polymerization (curing).
– Then apply T-Gel Clear or Builder Gel Clear to the remaining four nails per hand and cure again for 120 SECONDS UNINTERRUPTED. Place the thumbs in the lamp again.
Ensure the hand is placed correctly in the lamp and all nails are properly exposed to light.
After curing, remove the sticky layer from the base coat.

7 FOLLOW-UP PRODUCT

Continue with the chosen product (T-GelBuilder GelBuilder Base ProAcrygel or Sculpt Jelly Gel) as you are used to, with a minimum curing time of 120 seconds per layer.

Important: if you have worked with Acid Primer, only use hard gel systems and never use them in combination with flexible systems; base coat 2.0, Builder Base Pro or other flexible and soak-off products.

Remove the sticky layer before continuing with Gelpolish or Top No Wipe 2.0.

RESULTS

Using this approach, we have achieved very consistent and desirable results over time.
We understand that these changes may take some getting used to, but with these small technical adjustments, safe, strong, and durable nail sets remain absolutely achievable.

If you have any questions or encounter any problems, we would of course be happy to help you.
Together we ensure that everything runs smoothly and reliably again.

Lots of love,

Tanya, Arjen & TS NAILS team